Radon FAQs

If you have conducted a test and/or had a radon professional test your home and the result is high, then you should contact a radon professional who is licensed, certified and insured. We recommend using the RadonAway Authorized Pro Network because this network is a highly reputable group that spans the United States.

You can test for radon yourself. Make sure to follow the detailed user guide included with purchase of an easy-to-use short-term radon test. There are videos on this website (go to product page) that walk you through the process. Another option is to contact a local, certified and insured Radon Professional to conduct professional testing.

We recommend using the Authorized Pro Network because it contains highly skilled, properly training radon industry professionals who are reputable and are located through the United States. Similar to when you have plumbing or electrical needs in your home, it is best to rely on a professional.  Its the same when it comes to radon.  Its important to work with a licensed, certified and insured radon measurement or mitigation professional to ensure that your testing and mitigation is done properly.  A professional will assess your needs and provide you with options so you can make informed decisions. 

You can buy an easy-to-use and accurate radon test for air or water here at on this website. The radon tests offered on this website include NELAP approved radon laboratory services and analysis so you can rest assured that your test will be accurate. When selecting a test, check to see if your testing device includes radon laboratory analysis and no hidden fees.

You can get a visual of a properly installed Interior or Exterior Active System Depressurization System (ASD) or Radon System.  A radon fan should always be running and has several essential components that must be placed and sealed correctly in order for the system to be effective.  In order to know this is the case, its best to reach out to a radon professional nearby.  A professional can access the system and recommend options to make sure your system is compliant and working properly.

The US EPA has established the “action level” for deciding when you need to “do something” about the radon in your home, school, or work place is 4 pCi/L.  They recommend reducing your radon level if it's above 2 pCi/L. Generally speaking, 4 pCi/L is the level accepted by most states and US territories.

pCi/L= picocuries per liter, the most popular method of reporting radon levels. For those interested in the numbers, a picocurie is 0.000,000,000,001 (one-trillionth) of a Curie, an international measurement unit of radioactivity. One pCi/L means that in one liter of air there will be 2.2 radioactive disintegrations each minute. For example, at 4 pCi/L there will be approximately 12,672 radioactive disintegrations in one liter of air, during a 24-hour period.

In other countries, the action level ranges from 150 Bq m3, which is slightly less than 4 pCi/L, to no limit or preset action level. For example, in Canada the suggested action level is 200 Bq m3. Bq=becquerels is an international method of measuring radiation.

The following is an excerpt from the US EPA’s Citizen’s Guide to Radon:

 "RADON IN WATER
If you’ve tested the air in your home and found a radon problem, and your water comes from a well, you should have your water tested for radon.

Compared with radon entering the home through soil, radon entering the home through water will in most cases be a small source of risk. Radon gas can enter the home through well water. It can be released into the air you breathe when water is used for showering and other household uses. Research suggests that swallowing water with high radon levels may pose risks, too, although risks from swallowing water containing radon are believed to be much lower than those from breathing air containing radon.

While radon in water is not a problem in homes served by most public water supplies, it has been found in well water. If you’ve tested the air in your home and found a radon problem, and your water comes from a well, contact a lab certified to measure radiation in water to have your water tested.

If you’re on a public water supply (that is, pumped from a well) and are concerned that radon may be entering your home through the water, call your public water supplier.

Radon problems in water can be readily fixed. The most effective treatment is to remove radon from the water before it enters the home. This is called point-of-entry treatment. Treatment at your water tap is called point-of-use treatment. Unfortunately, point-of-use treatment will not reduce most of the inhalation risk from radon.

Call your State Radon Contact or the EPA Drinking Water Hot line (800-426-4791) for more information on radon in water."

If you would like to test for radon in water, you can purchase a test on this website. You can also contact a radon professional nearby to test the water in your home.  Once the sample is analyzed, you'll know the radon level and a professional can advise you on mitigation options if the level is found near, at, or above the EPA radon recommendation levels.

Visit our interactive National Radon Levels map generated from a database of actual radon test results.

The first step in knowing is to test for radon. Since radon is a colorless and odorless gas, its impossible to know if your radon level is considered 'elevated' (near or above 4.0pCi/L) and therefore dangerous to your health. Radon can be found in the air of any home and can also be found at concerning levels in the water supply for homes using well water. You have 2 options to consider to test your home for radon: 

1. Get an easy-to-use radon in air test and/or radon in water test and do the testing and sampling yourself following the detailed instructions.
2. Contact a certified and insured Radon Measurement Professional who offer professional testing for peace of mind.

1 in every 6 US homes contains elevated or dangerous levels of radon, which per the EPA is at or above 4.0 pCi/L.  Also, 21,000 people die every year in the US from radon-induced lung cancer.  Environmental and Medical professionals concur that testing for radon is truly the only way to understand if you are at risk for radon exposure. The good news is that testing and treating radon is relatively inexpensive and most importantly, could save your life.

YES! We receive this question from people around the world.  It has been scientifically proven that long term exposure to elevated levels for radon (meaning at or above 4.0 pCi/L) can lead to radon induced lung cancer.  Many people are unaware that radon is the #1 environmental hazard in the USA and the 2^nd leading cause of lung cancer deaths in the country.  An estimated 21,000 lung cancer deaths annually are due to high levels of radon exposure over a period of time. Radon testing and reducing radon gas through a proper radon mitigation system are vital to preventing known health issues tied to radon exposure.  Visit the EPA's website to learn more about health risks with radon.

The radon tests offered on this website are popular throughout the world for their ease of use and accuracy. Operation is neat, quick and simple. Inside each device you'll find user friendly instructions to guide you along the way. In addition, 'how to' videos can be found on the bottom of product pages if visual instruction is preferred.  These radon test kits offered on this website are professionally analyzed by NELAP (National Environmental Laboratory Accreditation Program) approved radon laboratories and NRPP (National Radon Proficiency Program) certified Radon Measurement Professionals who have processed millions of test samples so rest assured, you are dealing with experts.

Please be sure to read the instructions thoroughly if doing a radon test yourself.  It's the best way to make sure the test is done correctly.

There are two main methods used to test for radon gas and radon daughter products. The most popular involves a “passive” device such as an activated charcoal test kit that collects radon gas atoms or an alpha track device that has a small strip of special plastic that is “marked” when hit by radon’s alpha particles. “Passive” devices are later “counted” in a laboratory to give you your result. Another passive device called an electret has a plastic disc with a static charge. Electrets are used only by professional radon inspectors because of the expertise required and the expensive equipment needed for analysis. 

The other main method is the use of an “active” device called a CRM (continuous radon monitor). These are mostly used by professional radon inspectors for short-term (48 hours) radon testing. There are many different models of CRMs, but they all require some formal training in order to be used properly.

The biggest differences between passive and active radon testing methods are the cost and the level of expertise required for proper operation. The only devices suitable for the do-it-yourself radon tester are the activated charcoal test kits and the alpha track detectors. It is estimated that nearly 95% of all radon testing is conducted with activated charcoal test kits. Simplicity, ease of use, and low cost are the reasons more than 250,000 of these devices are used by the general public each year to test their homes and work places. Their typical purpose is to provide a radon screening measurement by homeowners who want to know if there is a potential radon problem in their home.

The US EPA has established a guideline for do-it-yourself radon test kit accuracy of +/- 25%. This equates to +/- 1 picocurie at the EPA’s action level of 4.0 pCi/L picocuries per liter of air in the home. This level of accuracy is easily accomplished when using most do-it-yourself devices, if the user carefully follows the instructions.

There are only known advantages. Here is why. If the system is installed correctly and it is operating properly, the primary advantage is that you will have lower in-home radon levels and therefore, reduce your risk significanly of radon induced lung-cancer. 

Depending on the type of mitigation system, a secondary advantage is a much lower level of humidity (dampness) inside the building, especially in houses with basements or slab-on-grade floors. If the system is an active “sub-slab-suction” design or has incorporated a vapor barrier over the bare soil, then reduced humidity may occur. In many cases, we have heard of folks getting rid of their dehumidifier after seeing how dry the basement became after switching on their mitigation system. Click here to learn more.

There may be a few building materials that will emit small amounts of radon gas, such as granite, concrete, gypsum board (sheet rock), bricks, and field stone. However, this is rarely the case because most of these materials are very dense. This means that if there is radon-producing radium in these materials, only a small amount of the radon gas near the surface ever makes it out into the environment. Most of the radon gas decays while trapped below the surface. Radon gas has an approximately 92 hour half-life and in 8 half-lives, most of it is “dead.” 

In almost all cases of elevated indoor radon levels, the culprit is the underlying soil. We have heard of a few homes whose walls are built entirely of stone that have almost no indoor radon. We have also heard of a few that have elevated levels. It is not easy to determine if the radon is coming from only the walls or if it is a combination of the walls and the underlying soil. To know for certain requires a skillful radon measurement professional.

Visit EPA's website to understand their stance and guidance on radon.  If you are wondering what resources are available in your state, click here. Also, take a few minutes to read the Radon Information and Radon Resources sections on this website - they are filled with facts, information and helpful resources to help you better understand radon.